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How many luxury brands that cater to a quiet, understated aesthetic can you come up with off the top of your head? I’ll start with a few: The Row, Ralph Lauren, Totême, Khaite, Savette, Brunello Cuccinelli, Bottega Veneta, Max Mara, and the latest addition, Phoebe Philo. With the trend of understated luxury being so prevalent, it’s clear that there’s no shortage of brands to choose from. Just when you think there couldn’t possibly be another way to elevate a grey hoodie or a simple white tank top, a new name emerges to prove you wrong.

Reddit user Texasusa pondered, “I can’t help but think the designers giggle whenever people buy overpriced common goods.” One of the top brands known for producing basic yet high-quality items that won’t disappoint is Loro Piana, the 99-year-old expert in cashmere. Despite being known for their discretion, Loro Piana has been seeing a surge in popularity, especially after their 2021 streetwear collaboration with Japanese designer Hiroshi Fujiwara and the introduction of a logo. It leaves us wondering, what’s next for them?

Loro Piana has a rich tradition of producing fine merino wool clothing, specializing in this area since 1924. The brand achieved a strong reputation within Italy’s post-war haute couture industry and went on to become a leader in international luxury retail. Additionally, Loro Piana is the leading producer of delicate cashmere, spanning regions from Mongolia to New Zealand. They are known for rescuing the Andean vicuña from near-extinction, and their collection features elusive and highly prized items fit for Inca royalty.

Despite its almost invisible branding, Loro Piana is dedicated to craftsmanship, much like contemporary brands such as Jil Sander, The Row, and Phoebe Philo’s Céline. The post-recession era saw a rise in the popularity of normcore, providing a contrast to the over-the-top excess of the Y2K era. After being acquired by LVMH in 2013, Loro Piana became exclusively geared towards the 1%, retaining its own distinct world of logo-less luxury.

With the rise of the cultural phenomenon that is Succession, Loro Piana found itself at the center of attention. The show’s characters prominently featured the brand, and this, combined with other high-profile endorsements, paved the way for the new trend of “quiet luxuries.” In response, LVMH saw an opportunity and released discreetly monogrammed items that drew attention to the brand in a new way.

From discreetly monogrammed baseball caps to uncharacteristically spacious handbags, Loro Piana’s newest offerings come with subtle branding, a departure from their typical style. For longtime buyers of Loro Piana, this may come as a shock, especially with the introduction of a marketing department and brand sponsorship of social media influencers. Despite these changes, Loro Piana’s logo-less lineups continue to shine in their quiet glory.

As fashion trends are cyclical, Loro Piana’s logo caps may eventually fade in popularity as maximalism makes a comeback. Until then, the brand continues to offer their logo-less lineups for those who appreciate understated luxury. And as for me, I’m eyeing a large tan Bale bag.

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